Fall Color And Reflection
Cedar Elm - Ulmus Crassifolia
This Cedar elm, Ulmus crassifolia, is living here until it heads off to a client next spring (2018). Isn’t the color delightful?.
This Cedar elm, Ulmus crassifolia, is living here until it heads off to a client next spring (2018). Isn’t the color delightful?.
I do all sorts of things with trees, some good and some bad but all with the best of intentions. The ultimate goal is a great bonsai that really makes you think it’s a real tree. My preference is to speed up the process as much as possible. Here are a few examples of trees that (so far) have survived my good intentions.
You probably remember this Cedar elm, Ulmus crassifolia, from a couple of weeks ago. I was trying to decide which pot worked best, and most of you picked this one. Last weekend I took the plunge and slip-potted it. It doesn’t seem to have minded at all.
Here’s a Crape myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica (purple flowers), made from a cutting this year. What I like about it is the neat movement in the trunk – which was originally nice movement in a branch I pruned off of another bonsai and rooted. That got me to thinking literati.
Today’s Halloween, and Halloween is my birthday, so I took the day off and it turned out to be a perfect day to do some work on the Dragon, my super-duper Water-elm (Planera aquatica). For those of you unfamiliar with this tree, here it is in “stick” form back in Summer 2015. A not-so-humble beginning – trunk base 5.5″ across, 42″ in length, nice “dragony” trunk.
Here’s the first shot from this morning. The tree is developing right on schedule. But it does need to have the dead wood treated with lime sulfur. It’s mostly very durable, but I don’t want to see any insect damage.
I’ve been hustling today to finish getting my greenhouse up and heated, so all those tropicals I just had to make this year will survive. It looks like a light freeze is headed our way tonight.
And this is turn means the weather has broken, so it’s just a matter of time till the leaves are off the trees. I don’t know if I’ll get any color this year, it’s not common here in the Deep South, but by year-end most everything should be bare.
I’ve had a good and fun year with elms, and truth be told they’re probably my favorite species to grow as bonsai with the exception of Bald cypress. Here’s an American elm, Ulmus americana, that I lifted in May of this year. Here’s its story. It’s been growing on its own as a volunteer on my property for probably eight or ten years, in a not-so-good spot. It just so happened to be growing in a partly-recumbent manner, and was perhaps ten feet long (tall). The trunk was 1.5″ across, so not a bad start for something. So it seemed clear to me that the something should be a raft-style bonsai. The recumbent section had some roots already, so I just chopped it to size and potted it up.
The photo above is dated 6/17/17. In just a few weeks the recumbent trunk had grown plenty of shoots. Those shoots would to be the trunks of my raft-style bonsai. And given how fast American elm grows, I was going to have to apply some wire before long.
On October 1st, this thing had grown so fast I had to remove the wire from two of the trunks in order to keep it from biting in. I’d also gotten another couple of trunks to add to the raft, making a total of seven. I was really getting somewhere.
Just to close out this post, I’ll make mention of another favorite elm of mine, Cedar elm, which I’ve written about a lot this year. While all of my other elms are done growing, the Cedar elms continue to plug away. This is true even for specimens in the ground.
This one was looking pretty awful at the end of summer, with ugly leaves many of which had dried up; then the temperatures moderated a bit, and it decided to put on some fresh new growth. It could grow most of the way through November, if we don’t get a killing frost.
I often see the question asked, “Can I wire in the fall?” The short answer is, “Yes, provided….”
That sounds a bit evasive, but as with many things in the wonderful world of bonsai you have to be aware of qualifiers that may come with different species and situations. I have done my share of wiring in the fall. I usually do it early in the fall, because there’s a little growing season left for me. That’s one of the qualifiers. Wiring puts stress on your trees, even though it’s often not a great deal of stress. But the tree responds by producing new cells to replace any damaged when bending the branches. This is very important. If you live too far north, wiring in fall could result in one or more dead branches because there wasn’t any growth to allow them to recover. So that’s one of the qualifiers. Another of course is associated with species. Some maintain good vigor into fall, such as Bald cypress and Cedar elm, and some don’t. Winged elms do not. Sweetgums do not. Hawthorns do not.
I wrote about this Cedar elm, Ulmus crassifolia, back in September. Collected in late April, it was slow to recover but eventually really gained strength. And it’s still growing! So today I figured it might just be time to take advantage of a fall wiring opportunity.
A few minutes later, this is what I’ve got. I think the tree is already looking better. Notice how chopping the main and left-hand trunk shorter is going to improve taper. So it certainly wasn’t a bad thing that they suffered dieback.
The right-hand trunk died back to the base. Fortunately, a nice shoot emerged from near the base of this trunk that I can use to replace it. Moreover, it’s toward the back of the tree which is actually ideal.
Now that I have everything chopped back, it’s time to do some styling.
And here’s the basic plan. I think it’s pretty easy to see what this specimen is going to turn out like. It has a killer base, mature bark on the main trunk and a really nice design. I expect to be able to put it into a bonsai pot next spring.
Let me know what you think.
Oh, one last thing about wiring in fall. Check the wire you put on earlier in the season! If it hasn’t already happened, fall is the time of year when branches suddenly swell and cause the wire to bite in. So get that wire off if it needs it!
This Cedar elm (Ulmus crassifolia) I collected back in April just about croaked, but I took extraordinary steps and it appears to have pulled through. You can see why I worked so hard to save it. That shari running from near the base most of the way up the tree is 100% natural, and makes for a great feature worth designing around. But what’s the right planting angle?
I figured out that the tree had way too much slant in it, so I wedged it up for this photo. Still looks nice from this angle, but now I’ve pretty much lost sight of the shari.
It’s not always easy to see the tree in these collected sticks and stumps, so I often take pencil and paper to the task to come up with a plan. This is one of those cases that really lends itself to this technique. Here’s the result.
It’s a masculine tree, of course, with that big gash ripped into it, so a rectangular pot is called for. In order to emphasize the lengthy shari, a narrower silhouette is in order too. Given the tree’s gentle taper, making it look taller is also called for. So I need the branches to remain close in to the trunk.
This was a great exercise. Don’t be shy about taking pencil and paper to any of your trees in development. You may be surprised at what you come up with.
Leave me a comment below and let me know what you think.