Styling A Nice Little Parsley Hawthorn, And A Great One For Me

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I was able to collect a few Parsley hawthorns, Crataegus marshallii, this winter. Here’s one of the “sticks” that I brought home. Though it was by no means a big one, I was nevertheless excited to find this one because of this very nice trunk movement. Sometimes when you’re out collecting, you’ll see a tree and immediately think “literati.”

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Here’s the stick a couple of months later. There are lots of nice long shoots, which is just the ticket for starting a literati bonsai. Literati are bonsai that are expressed with relatively little foliage. So even though there’s quite a bit on this new bonsai-to-be, most of it is going away.

You may notice that I’ve turned the tree in this photo. That’s because there’s a neat scar in the lower part of the trunk that I think deserves to be seen. Except for this, either view is equivalent to the other.

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In a few minutes I completed this initial styling. Well, it doesn’t look like much, does it? But you can’t miss where I’m going with this tree.

Now it’s time to set the tree on its bench and just leave it alone. Food, water, neglect. It’ll continue to put on growth this year – likely quite a bit, if my experience with Parsley hawthorn is any indication – and that means the three branches that are left on this specimen will thicken up as I need them to. In 2018 this one will begin to make a statement, most likely in a bonsai pot if the growth is strong enough.

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The trunk base on this specimen is 0.75″, by the way, and it’s 16″ to the chop.

This is a more substantial stick that the one above. It measures 3″ at the soil and is 13″ to the chop. Isn’t the trunk character great? When I first spotted this one I knew it was destined for my collection.

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I didn’t take a before photo, but trust me when I say there was a lot more growth on this tree before I started the wiring and editing process. Here I’ve established a good branch set; it’s just a matter now of letting everything continue growing.

I need for all of the branches to get a lot thicker, and that will take the rest of the growing season.

I’ll post updates as this one progresses.

In the meantime, I’d love to hear any feedback you’d like to share.

It Was A Happy Hawthorn Hunt – Check Out The Cool Parsleys

Collecting season 2017 is drawing to a close. One species I wanted to be sure to have some stock of is Parsley hawthorn, Crataegus marshallii. Today I took care of that chore. Here are a few that I brought home.

This guy isn’t much to look at, having only slight taper, but once it buds out I can either grow out the tree as a taller slender specimen or select a low branch to make into a new leader. I left it long to maximize the choices.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This one shouted “literati” at me from the woods, so it had to come home. Notice in the first example how straight the trunk is. This is normal for hawthorns. But all the twists and turns on this one are most definitely not. I’m looking forward to making something of this one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is my best find of the day. Taper and character, all in a neat package.

I should know in a couple of weeks if these trees have made it. All but one I collected today were already leafing out. Hawthorns are very forgiving when it comes to being lifted – my success rate is right at 90% – but you never know what will happen when you collect outside the dormant season.

Let me know what you think of these Parsley haws.

How To Make A Parsley Hawthorn Bonsai Better – A Cut And A New Pot

Creating a bonsai is a step by step process that goes roughly like this:

  • Select, buy or collect a piece of raw material
  • Prune away unneeded branches and excess trunk to create a single trunk line (for formal, informal, slanting, and cascade styles), wire and position branches; or, select and wire shoots and a leader of the purchased or collected specimen to create a branch structure and apex-in-training
  • Pot the tree into a bonsai container if it isn’t already in one
  • Continue development steps such as creating a tapering transition in the apex if needed, cutting back, shaping and ramifying branches, and working in the root zone to create a pleasing nebari
  • Make changes if and as needed to improve your bonsai

I collected this Parsley hawthorn, Crataegus marshallii, in January of 2016 and potted it directly into this Chuck Iker round. Because the tree has little taper, I planned to make a literati-style bonsai out of it. It responded by producing several buds along the trunk, certainly enough for the plan. I did some wiring on it, fed and watered it, but left it alone otherwise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s the tree today. You can see that my new leader emerged a couple of inches below the chop point. No real problem, you always have to work on the chop point anyway. Other than this, my other few branches are waiting to open up for spring.

As the months went on last year, I decided that I wasn’t happy with the pot. To be sure, literati bonsai are usually placed in relatively small pots. But this one just stopped seeming right to me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The obvious first order of business was to eliminate the chop stub, and carve down what was left so that it tapered smoothly into the new leader. This looks much better. Now for a replacement pot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think this new Chuck Iker round better suits the tree. What do you think?

This year’s development work on this bonsai will be aimed at building the branch structure and building the apex. I plan to continue with the idea that this Parsley hawthorn will be a literati bonsai when all is said and done. And I think it’ll be a nice one.

More New Collected Trees – Aren’t These Just Great?

Today was another opportunity to collect some great new material. Here are a few of the trees I brought home today.

First up is yet another terrific Bald cypress, Taxodium distichum. This one has a 5″ trunk 5″ above the soil surface, and is chopped at 27″. The buttress is superb, and runs down into the soil. I always bury my newly collected trees deep, to ensure the surface roots don’t dry out. In the case of this cypress, the buttressing runs way down into the soil. When this one finally gets raised in its bonsai pot, the effect is going to be stunning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How’s this for a great American hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana)? The base is nice and wide, the taper outstanding, and the muscling is so typical of the species. The basal diameter is 3.5″, and it’s 20″ to the chop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And last but not least, here’s a really awesome Parsley hawthorn, Crataegus marshallii. I’m planning to keep this one for myself. I just love the fluting in the lower trunk, and it’s got nice taper in a relatively short specimen. The trunk base is 2.5″ above the root crown, and I’ve chopped it at 13″. I’m planning a finished height of about 18″.

Leave a comment below and let me know what you think.

Repotting A Hawthorn; How To Correct A Root Problem

Here’s my specimen Riverflat hawthorn, Crataegus opaca. I repotted this tree two years ago, and knew it had since filled its pot with roots. Certain hawthorn species do not root all that vigorously, but Riverflat is not one of them.

At the same time, I’ve been faced from the beginning with a root problem. So today I wanted to take advantage of the normal repotting time for this specimen in order to address the problem and make it better. Sometimes this requires drastic action, for example layering, but in many cases you don’t have to take such steps.

Here’s the problem, namely that great big thick surface root. This root isn’t going anywhere, at least not while the tree is in my care. And since the remainder of the nebari is good, all I have to do is focus on this one root and see if I can make it better. The answer? Why carving, of course.

 

 

This work took about 10 minutes using a couple of hand tools. What I’ve done here is to carve a wedge down into the root. Beginning up near the trunk, I started carving a wedge-shaped section out of the single large root (which has produced smaller roots on either side, by the way). As I carved farther down the length of the root, I made the cut deeper. The ultimate plan will be to actually bring soil up into the wedge area, which will complete the illusion that this once-large root splits into two smaller sub-roots. I’m confident this will reduce the appearance of “heaviness” in this root.

Back to business. Here’s the tree out of its bonsai container. As I knew it would, the root mass is thick and long roots are winding around the outer edge. It’s definitely time for a root-pruning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s common to be fearful of cutting off a lot of the old root mass. This should give you an idea of just how far you can go, for species that root vigorously. Everything I cut off will grow back this year, and in 2019 I’ll need to repeat this process.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now this guy is back in his home. The pot is a custom piece by Paul Katich, and I believe it complements the tree just perfectly. The oval shape goes well with the graceful, curving trunk of this feminine hawthorn bonsai. The trunk base is 3″ above the root crown, and it’s 30″ to the tip of the apex.

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s a final look at the problem root. Once the exposed wood has dried, I’ll treat this area with lime sulfur just to be on the safe side, after which I’ll add some soil into the gap.

I’d love to hear what you think of this post. Was it helpful to you?

Thank You For A Great 2016 – This Year Will Be Even Better

Happy New Year to all of you!

And many thanks to all of you who helped Bonsai South grow in 2016. We’ve been doing better each and every year since I relaunched the business in 2010, and I’m happy to report that 2017 looks like it will be another record-setting year.

What can you expect this coming year and into the future? The mainstay of our business is obviously larger collected specimens of various species – Bald cypress, Hawthorns, Oaks, American hornbeam, Sweetgum, Elms, and so on. We’ve also done well with field-grown specimens of not only these but also non-native species such as Chinese elm. Our plans for 2017 include adding more species along with greatly expanding our growing field; obviously we will also continue the tradition of collecting the best material we can find. We expect to roughly double 2017 production, with plans for much more in subsequent years.

I get a lot of inquiries about new material, as you can imagine. The Winter 2017 collecting season begins now, so in the coming weeks I’ll be posting photos of new collects. When spring gets here there will be lots of new material for sale.

As always, we welcome any specific requests for trees you may have. Just send me a note via our Contact page.