I think we don’t grow enough oaks as bonsai. As a genus, Quercus is one of the more agreeable out there. Aside from being strong as oaks (ha!), this genus features a vast number of choices suitable to pot culture. I’ve written before about live oak and willow oak and water oak – Quercus virginiana, Quercus nigra and Quercus phellos – touting their superior qualities when grown as bonsai. And there are many, many more.
When we think of the characteristics of various species that make them suitable for bonsai, among these are smallish leaves that reduce in pot culture along with short internodes. While there are any number of oak species that fit this bill more than adequately, there are plenty of others inhabiting the other end of the spectrum. One of these is Southern red oak, Quercus falcata. This stately species features leaves ranging from 4-8″ long and 2-6″ wide. It’s not a species you’d necessarily set out to find when trying to decide on the various species to grow as bonsai.
So with that said, I was sure this tree was a water oak when I found and lifted it, which is another way of saying if I’d known it was a red oak I probably would have passed it by. It was collected in winter, of course, but there were plenty of leaves on the ground near this specimen that were water oak leaves. But of course, just because you find a certain type of leaf on the ground near a tree you want to lift, that doesn’t mean it’s from that tree. It never hurts to have an old lesson again.
Still, there’s no denying this oak has a lot going for it. I mean, look at that root base! Three nice lateral roots to stabilize the tree and its appearance. A very cool uro near the base to add to the character. Rugged bark with some lichens on it. No matter the species, I’d work on this tree just because it has a lot of bonsai potential.
So the tree came out starting in early April. The buds looked a bit weird for a water oak, but I didn’t think too much of it at first. But once the shoots began elongating I knew I had identified it wrong. The leaves were getting a lot bigger than I expected. Okay, so be it. Might as well start wiring it and see what I can make of this tree. This photo, incidentally, was taken about two weeks ago.
Did it grow a lot in two weeks or what? I put some more wire on the tree today, so those branches don’t get away from me. Interestingly enough, the primary branches are already pushing secondary branches. This is always a good sign when you’re training a tree, regardless of the species. A better tendency to branch and sub-branch means you’re more likely to make a suitable bonsai out of the species you’re working on. You can also see in this photo that the internodes are not all that far apart. That should mean I can get decent ramification on this tree, and that would mean leaf-size reduction.
Stay tuned for updated on this specimen. I imagine that by the end of this growing season I’ll have a very nice set of branches built. Next spring I’ll carve out the chop and possibly go to a bonsai pot with it.
The trunk base of this tree is 2.5″ in diameter above the root crown, and it’s 11.5″ to the chop. I can see it topping out at about 20″.
I have been an oak devotee for decades. Having been born and raised in California I always loved the native oaks. There are a number of west coast oaks that lend themselves well to bonsai and container growing. Many evergreen and deciduous oaks grow in California. Some of those are Quercus agrifolia, Q. wislizenii, Q. chrysolepis, Q. lobata, Q.kelloggii and Q. gerryana. However, evergreen “scrub” oaks have leaves as small as the nail on your little finger (huckleberry and deer oak). I have also “discovered” a dwarf variety in Arizona which may be more cold tolerant than their California counterparts. I’m amazed how you lifted the older red oak and it thrived. Most oaks establish a taproot which makes it very difficult to dig successfully. It is relatively easy to start ripe acorns gathered in Sept – Oct (before the birds and squirrels get them). Place them in a 1 gal. zip lock bag with two handfuls of moist, sterile potting mix or compost. Store the bag in a cool place and monitor the acorns for sprouts which may begin to appear in Feb. I remove the sprouted ones and pot up in 4″ or 1 gal. pots. Oaks deserve to be more widely represented in bonsai. Enjoy the wonderful world of oaks!
Thank you for the input, Bruce. I’ve been a fan of oaks for a long time. They have their challenges, but the positives far outweigh them in my opinion.
Hi Zach. Can u help me identify an oak I collected this winter? I have never collected nor worked on oak before but when I saw the taper and awsome bark on this specimen I had to have it. Also the largest of the brown leaves still clinging to the tree weren’t all that big to begin with. Thanks.
I can try, Tim, but no guarantees. Send me a photo and I’ll see what I can do.
Zach,
Thank you so much for your previous response to my question, its awesome having an experienced bonsai artist who is working with southern trees. I love not having to use varieties that are popular because the Japanese used them, but rather using ones that are right in my area!
With this tree, since it seems to grow so fast, is it unnecessary to replant it in the ground to develop the next leader into part of the trunk taper?
By the way, do you have a shop that you keep or just sell from home? I’m asking because my mom lives in Covington and if you have a shop I’d love to stop by and see your selection.
Matt, thank you for the comment. On this oak, there won’t be any need to put the tree back in the ground to get the leader to size. Also, I don’t put trees into the ground after collection; they’re tough enough to collect once.
I take visits by appointment on Saturdays. You’ll need to call a few days in advance.