Water-Elm Progression

by | Aug 7, 2020 | Care, Elms, Most Recent, Pruning, Styling, Water Elm, Wiring, ZPC

water-elm progression

the bonsai files

Sneak Peek

I’ve been keeping you updated on the progression of one of the Water-elms in my personal collection. This tree has done so well, it’s just about show-ready.

Water-Elm Progression

Beginning at the beginning is always best when you’re showing a progression. Here’s one of my personal Water-elms on the day it was collected, 8-4-18. This trunk is just outstanding, and I knew it was destined to make for a great bonsai.

This specimen came with more branching than I’m used to. I never object to having some structure to work with; it usually speeds up the whole development process.

 

 

Fast-forward to the next June, the tree has grown out enough to have been through a couple of rounds of wiring and has even made it into its first bonsai pot.

I’ve written about the development technique of shearing before. I blogged earlier in the season about this technique, as applied to this tree. The reason it’s worth mentioning now is I just conducted a Zoom consultation with a Water-elm client to demonstrate the technique, using this same tree again.

This was the result of shearing the tree back in May. It’s worth bearing in mind that shearing is not a refinement technique per se, though it does set up your tree for refinement as it helps build the tree’s superstructure. Shearing prompts the tree to backbud and produce ramification – not necessarily the ramification you’re seeking as the tree enters its maturing stage; rather, this period of ramification is what provides the finer design of each branch. It’s this design of each branch, repeated throughout the tree, that ultimately makes the whole thing realistic looking.

Once I was finished with this shearing, I set the tree back on the bench and just left it alone. It’s always tempting to pinch off some growth you think you won’t need as you pass by your trees on the daily rounds, but the technique works best if you just keep on walking. I would eventually get shoots a foot or more long for my current round of shearing.

This is the after shot of the tree following shearing and then some more detailed pruning.

I think it’s very instructive to spend some time studying this photo in comparison with the one just above. Notice that I do indeed have more ramfication in this iteration than in the previous one. But this tree is by no means fully styled; I’ve only set it up for that next stage by building a superstructure that will support all of the twiggy growth to come.

I took the opportunity during this round of pruning to remove crossing branches, downward pointing branches and those that just had no future either horticulturally or aesthetically. I especially wanted to clear out the interior of the tree, where no foliage is found in nature. All too often I see deciduous bonsai grown like bushes in pots – you can’t see 90% of the trunk and branching (and the excuse that you get to see all of it in winter is not acceptable). This tree shows and always will show the lowest half of the trunk, and when it fills out I’ll be sure you can see some of the interior structure higher up. There will be “space for the birds to fly through,” as John Naka used to say.

You’ll also notice that I employed some wire for the purpose of bringing two of the lower branches into a more horizontal position. This is a key step in the design process. You lowest branches will tend to be horizontal, the next layer above will tend to move somewhat upward, and by the time you reach the crown of the tree they’re really reaching for the sun. I think this tree gives a fine example of this design principle.

Let me know what you think of this Water-elm bonsai. It’s one of my all-time favorites.

Rulebreaking 101 – Red Mulberry

by | May 20, 2020 | Care, Most Recent, Mulberry, Potting, ZPC

rulebreaking 101 – red mulberry

the bonsai files

Sneak Peak

Rules are made to be broken, right? Yes and no. When you break a rule of art, what you end up with had better be a lot better than if you’d stuck with the rule. In bonsai it’s not any different ….

Rulebreaking 101 – Red Mulberry

I recently acquired this Red mulberry, Morus rubra, from another collector. It’s one of those trees that just calls out to you. The structure doesn’t really fit a familiar mold – and yet, you can’t take your eyes off of it. It’s quite a tree, and certainly ready for a bonsai pot.

What about this view? Isn’t it amazing! It’s hard to describe the style, though if pressed I guess the fallback would be informal upright. But that’s certainly not accurate, and doesn’t do the tree justice.

But this is where the problem comes in. The apex of this tree does not move toward the viewer; quite the contrary. When we’re learning all about bonsai, one of the rules is that the apex of your tree must always move slightly toward the viewer. It’s a metaphor that represents the tree “bowing.” So if you’re attending a workshop or demo, one of the things the artist will tell you is to be sure the apex of your tree comes slightly toward the viewer. And they’re absolutely right!

So in this view of the tree, after I potted it up, the rule is being adhered to. I’ve got the apex of the tree moving toward the viewer. Rules are followed! And it’s not a bad bonsai, right?

And yet …

In this view, the apex of the tree is moving away from the viewer. Is this a better bonsai? In my opinion, there’s no question this is the best front for this specimen. The deadwood feature is visible. The curve of the trunk and taper are spot-on. That terrific branch with all its development balances the composition. What’s not to like?

I’m convinced that this is one of those trees where you have to forget bonsai tradition in order to make the best bonsai out of what you’re working with. I could have force-fit the tree into something that followed the rules – but why end up with something less in the process?

I’d love to hear what you think about this specimen. It’s already one of my favorites.

BC Forest – Would You?

by | May 16, 2020 | Bald Cypress, Care, Most Recent, Styling, ZPC

bc forest – would you?

the bonsai files

Sneak Peak

It’s common to have to redesign bonsai over time. A branch dies; you find a better front; and in the case of established forest plantings you lose trees, which have to be replaced. Here’s one of those cases, and what I’m thinking of doing about it. But would you?

BC Forest – Would You?

For those of you who have been following my blog for the past few years, you probably recall seeing this Bald cypress forest that was left to me by my late bonsai friend Allen Gautreau. This is the earliest photo I have of the forest, which Allen did a great job putting together and maintaining.

It is worth noting that the forest started out life as nine trees. Time and chance reduced the number, and when I got it there were five.

I decided to move the forest to a new container, a vintage tray by the late Richard Robertson, a few months later. I also did a little redesigning, as I thought the placement of the secondary group was too close to the primary. I also snugged the trees in a little bit.

The next overwintering claimed the largest specimen in the secondary group.

Here we are, in the third growing season since the repotting. All of the trees are doing well, but of course there’s that problem of the fifth tree. The obvious thing to do would be to plant another small seedling and get it on its way to maturity in the forest. But what if there’s another answer?

What if I go bigger – quite a bit bigger? I recently acquired this specimen, which looked like a natural future flat-top. I re-chopped it yesterday, and will start the crown-building process once I have the new shoots I need. But in the meantime ….

What if the original forest, with its original focal specimen, suddenly became the smaller trees? I’m thinking that the big tree will look best not out front, which is typical, but rather as a towering specimen that pushes the forest perspective in what would be the opposite direction from normal practice. We try to create the impression of depth in our forest plantings by having larger trees placed toward the front of the container. This is the most common way of doing things, and it works great. But who’s to say you can’t reverse that, under the right circumstances, and end up with a forest planting that works visually and artistically.

I’m thinking I’m going to do this soon. The question is, Would you?

Stay tuned for updates.

Update 5/17: I had a large forest tray on the bench that Byron Myrick made for me several years ago. Although the color would not be my first choice for a BC forest, the size seems to be just right.

I think there’s a lot of potential in this design. I’ll know if it’s paid off once I’m able to build the crown of the primary tree. I the meantime, I think this has the makings of a pretty nice forest. How about you?

Willow Oak Progression

by | May 3, 2020 | Oaks, Progression, Willow, ZPC

Zach’s Personal Collection

willow oak

Progression Carousel

Willow Oak

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

The image has an arrow on both the right and left side.

Click the arrow on the right ( > ) to go forward and see the next image(s) in the progression.

Click the arrow on the left ( < ) to go back and see the previous image(s) in the progression.

 

Want to read a quick synopsis about each image on the carousel? Scroll down for more …

 

progression

history

Updates are in date order beginning with the first date Zach began documenting the progression.

03/17/2012

Willow oak, Quercus phellos, is one of the best oak species to grow as bonsai. It features willow-shaped leaves that reduce well in bonsai culture, to 1″ or less in length, it ramifies well and is very easy to maintain horticulturally.

This specimen was collected in the winter of 2012. This is the earliest photo I have, which was taken 3/17/12. The trunk is 4″ in diameter at the base, and it’s about 12″ to the chop.

What you can’t see in this photo is that the trunk base has been buried to protect the surface roots of the tree while they recover. But all in all, this is a tremendous specimen.

03/31/2012

Two weeks later, it’s clear this tree is going to make it.

Look at the strong growth of the new shoots.

06/02/2013

Here’s what a Willow oak can do in just over a year from lifting.

An amazing amount of growth, right?

06/08/2014

I’m not sure of the exact date of this photograph, but 2014 was the year of bitter cold and a lot of my trees came out late. This specimen always comes out late each spring, but always makes up for it as the growing season progresses.

04/03/2015

(1 of 3)

This is the beginning of year three for this specimen, and it’s time for the initial potting. Compare this photo with the first one above. We’ve come a long way!

04/03/2015

(2 of 3)

Now you can see what I meant by burying the surface roots.

Here the tree has been removed from its nursery container, the roots combed out and trimmed for the bonsai pot. This is just what you can expect from a Willow oak, in terms of root growth. What began as simply large roots chopped back is now a dense fibrous root system, exactly what is needed to ensure the health of a fine bonsai.

04/03/2015

(3 of 3)

And here’s the tree in its bonsai pot, a fine custom oval by Bryon Myrick.

The new leader needs to be reduced, and the branches need much further development. This can all be accomplished in a bonsai pot.

09/05/2015

 

Later in the season, the apex was reduced and regrown and there’s been more development in the lower branches.

06/25/2016

 

In spring of 2016 I decided to regrow the lowest right branch because I didn’t like the way it was designed. Sometimes you just have to start over. So I have two new branches emerging from the stump of the branch, which I think will make for a better design as it develops. Otherwise, this tree is coming along beautifully.

11/25/2016

Showing some fall color. I gave this tree a trimming while leaving the leaders long on the lowest right branch. They will be allowed to grow untrimmed throughout spring of next year, after which time I’ll cut them back hard to continue redevelopment of the branch. But isn’t this tree looking fantastic?

Next year the ramification should move to the next level over most of the tree.

04/06/2018

After repotting.

My plan is to continue developing the lower right-hand branch, plus improve ramification.

10/05/2019

The tree had different plans from mine. It dropped the low right-hand branch, and the spring growing season saw the tree struggle quite a bit. I failed to recognize the growth of shade where this tree was sited, due to some willows that have been getting bigger for the past few years. So I moved this oak into more direct sun. That did the trick. You can see how nice the foliage looks by the end of the season. Now to deal with the missing branch.

12/06/2019

Who’d’ve thought. The tree actually looks a lot better without that branch. It doesn’t comply with the standard bonsai “rules,” but frankly if the right-hand branch had survived in preference to the one across from it on the left, I’d have had a “compliant” bonsai that would have been much less dramatic. Notice how the additional carving has also added to the appearance of this specimen.

10/29/2020

The growth has ended for 2020, and now I’m just waiting for (hopefully) some fall color before leaf drop. The tree has done well this year, despite a few lengthy droughts which are always hard on bonsai. It powered on through, and produced a lot more ramification.

Next spring will be repotting time once again. I’m considering a change of pots, but we’ll see.

 

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Big BC Update

by | Mar 28, 2020 | Bald Cypress, Care, Styling, ZPC
I posted a progression on this tree at the end of last year. With spring now in full force, this specimen has exploded with growth. I repotted the tree last year, and was in hopes of big growth for 2019; but I had to wait. But that’s fine. To make a good design takes time, and this is never truer than when you’re working on a large specimen.

Let’s look at some details of the 2020 plan and how I expect to accomplish it.

First of all, notice how I’ve taken a piece of wire and lashed the lowest left-hand branch to the branch above it. Why did I do this? The reason is simple: this branch has grown only weakly since I first selected, wired and positioned it. Even though I had brought the branch down, this is usually not enough to keep strong growth from occurring. In this particular case, it did. So I’m going to overcome this problem by pointing the branch upward, and this was an easy way to do it.
I’m getting results already. If you look closely at the tip of the weak branch, I have the beginnings of an elongating shoot. This is something that has not happened on this branch since it first formed. Each year the branch would put on its fronds, and just stop growing for the season. Very frustrating. But now I’ve got something going that should thicken the branch up during this growing season. You can use this technique to good effect; I have, many times.
Now let’s look up into the crown of the tree. It takes a number of years to properly complete the tapering transition when you begin with a big trunk chop. It’s common to lose patience and build out the crown of your tree before the transition is done. I need to make sure this one gets done right. With the rampant growth I’m getting, I should be able to thicken the base of the transition point easily. I need it to be at about 50% thicker than what it is now.

By rampant growth I mean the number of elongating shoots that have appeared in the crown from bottom to top. These are the type of shoots that produce thickening of the branches they appear on. If you don’t get these shoots, you don’t get thickening – it’s just that simple.
Here’s a closer view of the transition point. I don’t have far to go at all in making it look smooth and realistic.
Here’s the view from the back side. Isn’t that wound healing nicely! I expect it to be completely closed in about two to three more seasons.
For the final shot this evening, I wanted to show you the branch that I did the corrective work on back in December. Remember that I needed to force the base of the branch down at a sharper angle than it originally had. So I notched the branch underneath, put some heavy wire on it, and made that happen (cracking the top of the branch in the process – but it was all good). I was confident the branch would come through the rough treatment just fine, and evidently it has. Look at all the growth on it! The two wounds will completely heal during this growing season.

I hope this series of photos will be helpful to those of you who are working with large Bald cypresses. There are some tried and true techniques for making impressive bonsai from these specimens. It does take time, but it’s well worth it.

Let me know what you think of the progress.

Huckleberry #5 Potted

by | Jan 10, 2020 | Blueberry, Care, Potting, ZPC
Here’s where we left off with Huckleberry #5. With the fall trimming and carving done, I set it back on the bench and got busy with other chores. Flower buds on my Huckleberries are swelling, and a few are already opening. With the mild winter, I expect these trees to begin pushing foliar buds as early as February. That tells me it’s okay to pot up this specimen, which is now two years out of the ground.
First the cleanup. I brushed off the 2019 bark (it exfoliates yearly). Next was some finer carving and sealing those areas with PC Petrifier.
Next came choosing a pot. I’ve always loved this vintage Richard Robertson piece, and I thought it would work great with this tree. But when I set it in, the pot was just too long for the height of the tree.
The same thing turned out to be true of this fine Paul Katich piece. The color was great, depth was fine, it was just too long and I found out the same way as with the Robertson piece.
I think this Lary Howard pot gets me very close to where I need to be. The shorter length of the pot makes the proportions work out much better. I’d love to hear any feedback.