by Zach Smith | Feb 19, 2020 | Care, Chinese Elm, Elms, Potting, Styling
If I had to select only one species to grow as bonsai, it would be Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia). If I had to select the one species grown for bonsai that has been most abused by the commercial bonsai industry, it would be Chinese elm. Be that as it may, I always recommend the species to beginners and veterans alike. And last year I stocked in 300 liners, so I can strike a blow for better Chinese elm bonsai in the coming years. It won’t make a dent in anything, but at least there will be some decent specimens on the market.
Here’s a three-tree planting I did back in 2015. It only took a year from sticks in pots to get to this point (before the composition went to a client). That’s one of the great features of Chinese elm. It takes relatively little time to make them look like real trees.
You may remember this forest from last year. It had grown by itself as root “cuttings” from a spot where I’d previously lifted a single-trunk specimen. I hadn’t expected that sort of thing, so, happy accident as they say. My expectations for this specimen in 2020 are very high – so much so that I predict my forest will look very forest-like by the end of the season. Again, that’s a feature of the species more so than what skill I may bring to the table. With rapid growth, naturally small leaves that get smaller readily and a tendency to looked “aged” while still young (the bark will turn gray by year two or three in a pot at the latest), I’ll have something very quickly.
Here’s another of those happy accident root-zone forests. I lifted the individual trees the other day, and took the chance of direct-potting into this lovely Byron Myrick tray. One reason I felt I could take that chance was the fact that all of the trees were coming into leaf or pushing buds. I’ve had less than stellar results lifting Chinese elms in the dead of winter. They’re easy to harvest in summer, when in full leaf. I’m confident that at the start of active growth, while temps are still mild, I don’t have any need to worry about their making it.
Here are the five trees that I didn’t use for the forest shown above. I’ll be able to slip-pot this group around May or so.
I love “tall tree” forests, as you can probably tell from the photos posted above as well as this one. This is a 2014-vintage shot of a seven-tree group, before it went to a client. It took only two years to bring it to this point. I can spend hours enjoying bonsai like this one. If you don’t have one, get yourself a Chinese elm bonsai. I don’t recommend the awful “S” curve specimens, but these can often be regrown into something worthwhile. You can also stay tuned for examples from us. I have over 60 of my 300 in the ground right now, so they’ll start hitting the site before you know it.
by Zach Smith | Feb 3, 2020 | Care, Chinese Elm, Elms, Potting, Pruning, Soil, Watering
Repotting our trees is a key bonsai practice, and one that you must gain mastery of. Here is a summary of basic steps you’ll take each time you repot your trees:
- Make sure you have all necessary tools and supplies, including prepared soil, before you start
- Have a suitable space to work in – outdoors a bench is ideal, indoors a small bench or table and a large tub to work in will help keep the mess contained
- Prepare the new pot if you’re changing pots; if not, you’ll need to thoroughly clean the existing pot, replace drainage screen and the tiedown(s)
- Unpot the tree and inspect the root mass
- Comb out the roots which will have coiled their way around the outer edges of the mass
- Trim away the overlong roots and enough of the root mass to give room for fresh roots to grow
- Make needed corrections to the roots, namely the exposed nebari roots that are part of your design
- Add fresh soil to the pot to provide a thin bottom layer – slightly heaped in the middle
- Place the tree in the pot
- Tie the tree down once you’re satisfied with the placement
- Fill in all around the tree and any spaces in the root mass; use a chopstick or other tool to work the soil in
- Water thoroughly; allow to drain; water thoroughly a second time; newly potted or repotted trees with fresh soil will need to be watered more frequently than others, as it take a while for the fresh soil to become properly wetted
- Fertilize (this is optional at this time, but I tend to forget as I move on to other trees, so I go ahead and do it at the time of repotting)
- Place moss on the surface if so desired.
This is today’s subject, the Chinese elm that has its own Progression page.
It was last repotted in 2018, and though it could probably go another year without it, there are a couple of issues with the nebari that I want to correct before they get out of hand.
This is one of the roots that I’m unhappy with. Though it’s grown well and is about healed from the previous pruning I did, it’s just too straight and untapering a surface root to remain. I can solve this problem as part of the repotting process.
This one’s a little harder to see, but the surface root at the left has a smaller root coming off it that runs at an angle back toward the base of the tree. It’s also too long without taper and needs pruning back.
Step number one, the tree is pulled from the pot. It’s at this point that you do the assessment of the root mass. Look for any root rot caused by poorly draining soil. Always cut away any dead roots – you can’t eliminate all the fungal pathogens by doing this, but removing the dead roots and using free-draining soil when you repot will allow the tree to recover on its own (which it should do). Expect to see fresh white feeder roots when you inspect the root mass. This is a good sign, of course. Don’t worry about trimming these off as a necessary part of pruning the roots to make the mass more compact; the tree will happily grow new ones.
I combed out the root mass, trimmed away some of the excess roots, and washed off the excess soil that I’ll be replacing. It’s easier to see root problems once you get to this stage. In this case, it’s a root that’s coiling back toward the trunk base. These should either be removed entirely, or if you need a root that’s grown this way then gently uncoil and trim it so it grows in the desired direction.
Here I’ve pruned that first of my large offending surface roots. I’ve also removed the coiling root that I don’t need since I have a good mass of roots to support the tree.
In this photo you can see that I’ve pruned back the large root even more. My goal is to build the taper of this surface root. By pruning it back, I can expect the roots already branching off this one to continue to thicken over time. That should produce the effect I want.
Here’s the view from the other spot where I have that odd root moving back toward the trunk. There’s obviously work that needs doing.
The offending root is gone, and I’ve pruned back the too-straight surface root as I did the other one. I’ll be able to build taper with this one as well.
Here’s the tree after the final root trim. I’ve removed about a third of the total root mass, which is the right amount for this repotting. The amount of root mass you remove will vary based on how long it’s been since the last repotting, and how much root the tree has grown in the interim. With experience you’ll be able to immediately gauge this as soon as you pull the tree from the pot.
Here I’ve placed the tree back in its pot. I previously washed the pot thoroughly, made sure the drain screens were in good shape, and replaced the tiedown wire.
Placing your tree in its bonsai pot requires you to consider several parameters to ensure the composition is its best. They are (in no particular order):
- Determine the correct placement of the trunk base – in this case, since my tree emerges straight from the soil and terminates left of center at the apex, the base needs to sit slightly toward the right side of the (oval) pot
- The tree also needs to sit slightly to the rear of the pot
- The tree sits on a slightly heaped mound of soil, which brings the base just above the rim of the pot
- I had previously selected this pot because it is, in profile, roughly as deep as the trunk base is wide
- The pot measures about one-half the height of the tree in length, making for a good proportion
- The initial portion of the trunk emerges straight from the soil; the planting angle needs to be such that the initial portion of the trunk is perpendicular to the pot rim.
The tree has been tied down (I use a single tiedown for most of my bonsai; use however many work best for you), and the pot filled with soil. This step requires a lot of care. You can’t leave any gaps beneath the surface of the soil, because that spot will dry out and any roots there will die. Most everyone uses a chopstick to work the soil into and around the root mass. Some will say never to jab the chopstick into the root zone when you do this; I’ve never found this to cause a problem, since there really aren’t that many tender roots present at this stage of the process. If you’re concerned, then you can carefully insert your chopstick and wiggle it back and forth to work the soil in.
Here’s a closer look at the nebari. I’ve improved the surface rootage quite a bit, and this should result in a much better bonsai in a fairly short time. This tree has been in training since 2014, so the next few years should complete the making of this Chinese elm bonsai.
The final presentation for today. I did a little trimming of the branches (there’s probably a little more to be done), then watered and placed some moss on the surface. I also added some time-release fertilizer so I don’t get busy with other trees and forget. Because I’ve done root work on this tree today, it’s probably going to start opening buds within the next week. I have a lot of small Chinese elms in gallon pots, and most of them area already leafing out. Spring is getting closer by the day!
Let me know what you think of this repotting job.
by Zach Smith | Nov 16, 2019 | Care, Chinese Elm, Crape myrtle, Elms, Hawthorn
My venerable old Crape myrtle bonsai was challenged this year. After I repotted it in spring, it started to bud out just in time for a good freeze. I mistakenly thought that, since Crapes are quite winter-hardy, the new buds would be likewise. Well, they froze and so the tree had to marshal its resources and produce a second first round of spring growth. I did very little to it this year, just letting it recover. Our heat finally broke a couple of weeks ago. Then following a cool night, I suddenly had a nice show of color. Nice end to a less than ideal growing season for this tree. Next year I’m sure we’ll be back on track.
The fun continued this week when got a hard freeze, down to about 22F. That’s very unusual for November – in fact, I can’t recall a similar event over the past three decades or more. We typically get our coldest weather in the early part of the year. I did my bonsai prep for it, putting on the ground many trees I knew would not stand up to the cold and a number of others I wanted to be sure and protect, given the circumstances. This Cedar elm was not one of them. Cedar elms, like Chinese elms, are very hardy and won’t blink when temps get down close to 20. So I left this one on the bench. I got rewarded with a few lingering leaves turning yellow-orangey.
My big Riverflat hawthorn had mostly green foliage last weekend, with just a hint of yellow on a few leaves. Though they are very hardy and this one was on the ground, the foliage most definitely did not like 22 degrees. So I got what I guess you’d call pseudo fall color, a bronze set of leaves. It’s actually pretty attractive, though I’d have preferred it if the weather had been more cooperative.
We’re now into the latter stages of fall, which means winter will be here soon. That also means collecting season, which I’m really looking forward to. I expect to have a lot of great new material come 2020. If there’s something you’re looking for, feel free to email me and I’ll be glad to put your name on my wish list.
by Zach Smith | Oct 19, 2019 | Care, Chinese Elm, Elms, Potting
Black cherry, Prunus serotina, is very common where I live and probably where you live too. They’re lovely trees, too, with dark plated bark and glossy green leaves. The fruit is edible though tart and not very palatable. The wood of larger specimens is prized, and when you burn it for firewood you get a nice aroma in the house. But no Black cherry bonsai …. You’d think that the species would be commonly grown as bonsai, by those of us who love native species. The problem is, collecting decent size specimens just doesn’t work out. Why? They tend to suffer dieback with no warning, and are easily infected by fungi. So I gave up trying to collect them years ago. And then, three years ago, I spotted this seedling in the yard. It made me wonder if a bonsai could be grown from the ground up. Here’s where I am so far. The base is only a half-inch in diameter, but you can’t argue with the lush foliage I got this year. Next year I’ll either let it keep on growing, or cut it back and see if it recovers and continues to grow well. Stay tuned.
Can you root a 1″ Sycamore cutting? It looks like the answer may just be yes. I have a relatively young specimen I’m allowing to grow for shade, and last month I decided to remove a low branch I was tired of dodging when I mowed past. The thought struck me, what have I got to lose if I dust this thing, stick it in a pot and put it off in the shade? It took about six weeks, but I was able to find some roots near the base. So I carefully covered them back up and resumed ignoring it. And then it kept on pushing foliage. We’ll see if it makes the winter.
Can you miniaturize an Iris? I have a large hole in the yard that’s been thoroughly colonized by Louisiana irises over the past 20 years. They produce lovely purple blooms each spring. I got this crackle glaze pot from Lary Howard earlier this year, and it seemed like the perfect place to try the experiment. The taller blades you see are a good bit smaller than those in nature, less than half the height. But check out the small little tuft off to the left. It’s coming off a small rhizome that branched off the main one. So this seems promising to me. I can’t imagine the thing will bloom, and even if it does the flowers won’t be small (unfortunately). But I’m still excited about the plant.
Here’s why I’m hopeful about the Iris. This is native horsetail (scouring rush) – it is not a dwarf variety! I put a few canes in this 2.5″ Chuck Iker pot a few years ago. As each year came and went, the canes got smaller and smaller. Now some measure only 1 mm in diameter. The regular size for horsetail in nature is about 1/2 inch.
And the final question of the day. Can I lift a ready-made Chinese elm forest in July and grow enough roots on it by October to allow me to slip-pot it successfully? I’ll know the answer next spring, but I’m betting it’s yes.
by Zach Smith | Oct 5, 2019 | Chinese Elm, Elms, Maples, Pruning, Styling, Wiring
I write and talk about it frequently. Making bonsai is, aside from the obvious horticultural and design aspects, mostly about time. Trees may grow fast, but they only grow so fast. With that said, making the best use of the growth cycles of our trees is critical if we’re going to get where we want to be. So we start off with a seedling or rooted cutting or nursery stock or collected material. The basic steps from any of those options to “finished” bonsai are: 1) find or develop a trunk line; 2) select, wire and position a branch structure; and 3) develop good ramification and leaf-size reduction to establish the right proportions in your design. You’ve seen this Boxelder before. I had a mostly complete trunk line right from the start (decent movement and taper). So I out only needed to complete steps two and three. Here most of the branches are wired and positioned. I have a shoot in the apex you can’t see, that will be my leader.
A little time and continued fast growth now has given me the leader I need. More wiring and positioning. This tree will be ramifying and will likely reach a more or less “finished” shape in 2020 (it’ll go into a bonsai pot in spring; I can finish out the work from there).
This Boxelder will not reach a “finished” design next year, nor will it go into a bonsai pot. This is a longer-term project, because I have to build most of the trunk.
Here are some of the details that you’ll need to have in mind when you set out building trunks that have good movement, taper and proportions.
Notice the new shoot that’s going to be my choice for continuing the trunk line. It just so happens that it emerges in a perfect location relative to the leader that I was able to chop the trunk to (you’ll often find yourself just chopping to a stump; in this case I was able to chop to a reasonably thick low branch that worked nicely).
Why is that small shoot in just the right spot? I’ve found that when building taper, chopping a trunk (or branch) usually works best if you don’t exceed two or three basal diameters from the previous transition point. Visually, this is ideal. So when I make this next cut, I’m maintaining a good sense of proportion. (To further illustrate this principle, if you measure the base of this tree at the soil and then measure three of those lengths from the soil, voila, you’ll be at the trunk chop I made when I lifted the tree.)
Here’s another example of the trunk-building concept, in this case a Zelkova. I’ve got plenty of shoots to choose from for my next chop. But which is best?
Once again, when you examine this Zelkova trunk you see plenty of shoots to choose from for your new leader. But which is best? Once again, if you apply the principle noted above you can come up with an answer that works great. With this tree, there’s a good base and a nice curve near the base, but after that the trunk gets straight and non-tapering. Visually, this won’t work nearly as well as just chopping and building the trunk the right way. So measure the base of the tree, then take three of those diameters up the tree and you’ll end up with the middle of the three shoots that have arrows pointing to them. This will work very well. It’s worth noting that you could also take the lowest of the shoots to chop to. Are both choices equally good? I’d say so. But I’m pretty confident I’ll go to that second one next spring.
And finally, to round out our “time is everything in bonsai” blog for today, here’s that ready-made Chinese elm grove I showed you earlier in the season. I’ll have this forest in a bonsai pot come spring, and hopefully by summer it will be well on its way to a presentable state come Fall 2020. Let me know what you think of today’s notes. Have they been helpful to you? I hope so.
by Zach Smith | Aug 2, 2019 | Chinese Elm, Elms, Privet, Yaupon
I wasn’t able to blog last week, so I’m going to try to make up for it this weekend. For a start, here’s the Chinese elm forest that I’ll be developing this coming year. As you can see, the growth is already lush. All that needs to happen with this specimen for the remainder of the year is to grow and get strong. In 2020, I’ll create the basic design and move it to a bonsai tray. I have a feeling this specimen is going to end up being really nice.
I’ll bet you remember this Dwarf yaupon from a few weeks ago. This is a variety that just loves to grow in summer. I knew I could take advantage of this feature when I first did the styling. By the end of the growing season, I’m going to have a nicely filled out specimen on its way to becoming a fine bonsai.
This is another Chinese privet I had off in a corner of the nursery for a few years. It had originally been part of a larger, multi-trunk specimen. I finally figured out that this trunk was better by itself, so I separated it from the rest and potted it up. This tree will go from “stick with shoots” to bonsai in 2020. Stay tuned for updates.
