I thought it was about time to post another survey. Bonsai South is growing rapidly, and I want to make sure we’re providing the products and services you’re most interested in. Please take a few minutes to complete our survey. Your responses are strictly confidential. I’ll post the survey results early next year. Thank you!
With the new year only nine days away, and with some time to spare today (after wrapping Cathy’s Christmas present), I decided to lift a few trees and get a head-start on the season.
A couple of weeks ago I lifted two Huckleberries, Vaccinium sp., to see if I could get even more of a head-start on the season. I had been eyeing this specimen since the fall. It’s bigger than the ones I collected earlier, and frankly is destined for my collection if it survives. As you can see, I have one of the two trunks of this tree in exactly the shape it needs to be in in order to make a believable tree form. There’s movement and taper, and sub-trunks that I can train branches from. My plan is to develop a typical Huckleberry shape in miniature. The second trunk is going to require a few years of development. From the chop point I need a new leader that I can let run (and wire to introduce some movement in it; if I don’t do this at the right time, once the wood sets it’ll be way too hard to bend). I don’t mind this development challenge. It’s a very, very nice Huckleberry.
The trunk base is 3.5″ across, and it’s 18″ to the chop on the taller trunk. I figure it’s got to be on the order of 50 years old, mostly based on the size. My home was built in 1982, and this Huckleberry was growing at the base of a pine tree that’s been here all that time, so it’s most likely at least 35 years old. Fifty isn’t out of the question.
Here’s a Live oak, Quercus virginiana, that I grew from seed started in 2010. It’s been in the field getting thicker for about five years now. The trunk base is 2.5″ above the root crown, and it’s got nice taper to the chop point. My plan for it will be to train it in the classic Live oak style, with broad spreading branches that droop to the ground. Depending on where this one pushes buds, another chop may be in order. But I’ve got a good start.
Let me know what you think of these trees. And I hope all of you have a Merry Christmas!
Now that winter has set in, it’s time to begin working on the 2018 growing season. The “official” collecting season begins on January 1 and goes through about March. Sometimes the weather throws this schedule off, but most of the time it’s a reliable 12 weeks during which most species I offer can be lifted with good success.
It’s always nice to get a head start on the season, which as of now means two weeks during which I can identify and lift specimens that can be offered next year. Here are a couple that seemed ready to begin their lives in pots.
Here’s a Water oak, Quercus nigra, that has been growing on my property for several years now. I’ve chopped it back in order to build taper, in preparation for its ultimate styling as a bonsai. Since the trunk is now thick enough to work with, today seemed like a good time to go ahead and harvest it.
What a mess! When you look at a specimen like this, it’s not all that easy to see what you ought to do with it. But trust me, in here is a bonsai. You just have to be prepared to identify and create a trunk line.
If you can compare this photo to the one above, I think you can get an idea of how to go about finding your trunk line. The basic process involves identifying progressively smaller upright branches that when chopped to produce a smooth tapering from base to tip. In this case, there’s the trunk base which rises about 5″, then a slimmer leader emerging from this point on the trunk that rises another 3″, then a final smaller leader that completes the trunk line that’s 9.5″ from base to apex.
As you grow trees to size, this is the process you’ll follow most of the time. You allow the tree to grow, then you chop back, then new shoots take over (apically dominant, so they want to run), you chop them back when their thickness is sufficient, and the process is repeated.
This specimen is now potted and the chops sealed. Isn’t the taper terrific, not to mention the trunk movement? Come spring, it will throw buds in suitable places along the trunk which I can wire into place. I expect this specimen to be a nice shohin Water oak bonsai in just a few years.
Now onto this American elm, Ulmus americana. I’ve been field-growing this tree for about five years now, and it’s gained a lot of trunk thickness quickly (trunk base 2.75″).
There are two problems with this specimen: one, that thick high root on the right-hand side of the tree; and two, the swelling that has occurred at the original trunk chop point (where multiple leaders emerged and grew unchecked for too long).
Since I have a nice set of radial roots, I’m attempting to make the offending root look right by splitting it. Where it’s chopped it should heal over, and the spot on the lower trunk that’s bare should also roll over fine. Now, what about the thickness of the root? In a year or two, this root can be split longitudinally and the center area carved out. Once this heals over, the appearance should be natural.
Failing this, it should be possible to layer roots in the trunk area above this big root, and eliminate it entirely. But one thing at a time.
I did a final chop of the two leaders I’m keeping.
American elm grows with such vigor that I should have a smooth transition into the upper part of this tree by the end of the 2018 growing season.
If you’re looking for Water oak or American elm, stay tuned for new material this coming spring. If you’d like to be on our wish list for these species, drop me an email.
We tend to hunker down in winter, since our bonsai aren’t growing and the weather is often miserable. But that doesn’t mean we can’t make progress with our bonsai. In fact, once the leaves on our deciduous trees have fallen, we have an ideal opportunity to see the “bones” of the tree and evaluate/re-evaluate the design.
I’ve been working on this Chinese elm, Ulmus parvifolia, for a few years now. It has reached a pleasing point in the design process. The lower part of the tree, all the way to the crown area, is essentially done. The ramification has really advanced over the past year, and I’m actually going to need to thin the tree somewhat in late winter. I’m not complaining about that, mind you. As for the crown, the “bones” of it are taking shape and I expect it to fill out completely within the next two growing seasons. All in all, this tree is coming along beautifully.
When you study your trees, you have to take the time to consider them from all angles. Now, most trees are not “360°” bonsai, meaning they don’t look equally good from all angles. This is not a problem. Pretty much all bonsai have a definitive front, and with good reason. So you build the tree with this in mind, in accordance with the various rules.
Here’s the back of this Chinese elm. Nothing wrong with the tree from this angle, that some judicious pruning won’t fix in a couple of months.
Next we turn the tree another 90°, to view the left side. This present us with an obvious, though minor and easily fixed, problem. Notice that the back of the tree (to your left in this photo) does not extend as far out as the front does. As a rule, your bonsai should have greater extension in the back than in the front. Granted it’s not too pronounced here, but I definitely need to trim back the branches extending toward the viewer.
Now for the really important question. Do you notice anything unusual about the tree when viewing it from this angle? Take a few seconds and compare this photo with the first one above. As I studied them, one very significant thing just leapt out at me, namely, the trunk line has much more character and interest when viewed from this angle. Notice the subtle curve that progresses from soil to apex. Notice how the curve becomes more dramatic once you get into the crown area. And notice that the tapering transition appears much smoother.
The obvious problem with viewing the tree from this angle is one, the placement of the branches, and two, the fact that the crown moves away from the viewer. For this particular tree, that problem would be very hard to overcome if I planned to make this the new front. But … maybe there’s no need to. Why not just turn the tree 180°?
Voila! From this angle, not only does the crown move toward the viewer, I have a workable set of branches in the lower part of the tree. I still have the subtle curve of the trunk, and the curves I’ve built in the crown look very nice. I even have a better-looking set of branches in the crown to work from, when viewed from this angle.
It won’t be too much trouble to re-position this tree in its pot come spring. And that will make my design a whole lot better.
Do you agree with this change? Let me know what you think.
Unless you are strictly into bonsai as a connoisseur, meaning you collect bonsai and have a visiting or resident artist/curator maintain them for your viewing pleasure, you can’t ever ever stop trying and learning stuff. Now, don’t take that to mean you should learn the same lesson over and over again (I’ve had a few that way); but no one, and I mean no one, ever knows it all. So I have to keep on learning, and so do you. Learning means trying things. If you’re always trying things, you’re bound to get better at bonsai.
Okay, with all that said, collecting season is right around the corner. Most of the deciduous trees here are now dormant, so they are just about in the ideal condition for collecting. They’re sleeping, in other words, having built up their food stores for winter, and that’s when they can be collected with the highest odds of success.
Ordinarily I wouldn’t lift this Huckleberry, Vaccinium sp., until next month. It’s the sort of concept I’ve stuck with for 25 years now, because it’s a known concept horticulturally and I’ve had great success following the script. But why can’t I collect this specimen now? What’s magical about waiting another 22 days to collect it? Well, nothing I can think of. So this is me trying something new, and if it works then I’ve added to my bonsai knowledge.
What if this tree doesn’t survive? What if going straight to this bonsai pot wasn’t a good way to test this idea? I’ll lift another one tomorrow and pot it into a nursery container, so that will give me two subjects to experiment on.
Huckleberry is very easy to collect, by the way. I don’t recall ever losing one, so the survival rate is in excess of 90%.
The tree in the photo, by the way, has a base that’s 1.75″ above the root crown. It’s 17″ to the chop. Huckleberries typically produce nice radial roots, and this one is no exception. I’ve buried them for now; the tree can be potted higher in a couple of years to expose the nebari.
Now for two critical questions, and I’d like your input. Should I remove the right-hand leader? The taper would be much better if I did. And should I remove the secondary trunk? Let me know what you think.
As the year draws to a close, it’s nice to spend some time reflecting on this year’s growing season and how it impacted our bonsai. Was it a good year? What new things did you learn? What surprises (good or bad) popped up? It’s for sure that you never stop learning in the wonderful art and hobby of bonsai.
Bonsai South has had a great year, and thanks to all of you who helped make it that way. I’m really excited about 2018, which should be even better. Watch for new collected trees early next year.
So we don’t get too much fall color here in the very Deep South, so it’s always super nice to see something among my bonsai. Here are a few trees that have over-performed (even if only a bit).
This Chinese elm, Ulmus parvifolia, has been in development a few years now. I’m working on building out the crown, and making good progress. I’m a couple of years away from getting it to look right.
This tree has had a somewhat tough year in 2017, coping with a bout of black spot. It’s a fairly common problem with Chinese elm, but not too hard to manage. Most of the leaves are off the tree now, but I have some attractive yellow ones still left. They’ll be gone within a week.
Bald cypress, Taxodium distichum, produces a really lovely “glowing” rust color in the fall. There’s not a lot of foliage on this one, but you can’t argue with how attractive it is. As with the Chinese elm above, this one will be bare within a week.
Finally, here’s Rip Van Winkle, my late-budding Willow oak (Quercus phellos). I left it alone this year to grow out, as it appeared to be sluggish. Hopefully it will have regained all of its strength by the 2018 growing season. I got some unexpected color from it, so thought I would share.
I hope you’ve had a great bonsai year, and that your trees are thriving. Remember we’re always here to help out however we can.