It’s a primary tree, growing to heights of 60-100’. Leaves are 3-6” in length and width on a petiole roughly the same length, and star-shaped.
Bark is gray and deeply furrowed, developing about 10 years after seedling stage.
Growth habit: Sweetgum grows very vigorously, producing shoots in a container that can grow up to two feet in length in a single season. Collected specimens backbud very well, which allows the artist to select the branches necessary for producing a tree-like structure on a small scale. Sweetgum also grows continuously throughout Continue Reading →
A native of China, it was introduced to the U.S. in the mid-19th Century as a replacement for American elms killed by Dutch Elm Disease. Very hardy, cold-resistant, pest and disease-resistant, Chinese elm is a superior species for bonsai … when grown properly (see Worst Feature below).
- grow to 50’ tall and 1-1/2’ in diameter, and
- have leaves that are ¾ to 2” long, 3/8 to 3/4” wide, elliptical, saw-toothed, and shiny dark green.
Growth habit: Chinese elm is a fast grower. In the ground they can produce branches that are six feet long in a single season. The new shoots of containerized specimens grow fast as well, but also produce secondary branching within the same growing season. Growth is in distinct rounds, usually three each season.
Leaf-size reduction: the leaves easily reduce to ¼” with ramification. No special techniques are required, the leaves reduce on their own.
Ramification: outstanding, beginning in the first developmental year as the new shoots produce secondary and even tertiary growth with no prompting.
The Chinese elm forest you see here was created in 2012 from material grown as cuttings. The primary training was to Continue Reading →
Its natural range is East Texas into Northern Louisiana and Southern Arkansas. It’s a primary species, growing to heights of 80’.
The leaves are:
- elliptical or lance-shaped,
- sometimes blunt at the tip and sometimes sharp-pointed,
- 1-2” long and ½ to 1” wide.
- a shiny dark green above with a leathery feel,
- hairy beneath,
- coarsely saw-toothed with rounded teeth (the rounded teeth of the cedar elm’s leaves are about the only way to distinguish between cedar elm and winged elm in young specimens).
The bark of cedar elm is light brown and furrowed into broad, scaly ridges. It takes at least a decade before bark begins to form.
Growth habit: cedar elm backbuds very well on old wood. The specimen pictured below was estimated to be about 40 years old despite only having a trunk diameter of 1-1/2”. It had only a single branch when collected, but produced ample buds to allow for proper development of the tree’s structure.
Cedar elm has two or three rounds of growth each season, which Continue Reading →
One of the best bonsai trees for beginners is the Bald Cypress, or Taxodium distichum. A member of the Redwood family, Taxodiaceae, it is a primary tree species and can reach heights of 100-120’ with a trunk diameter typically between 3-5’. Larger and older specimens are known and documented, including what you see to your left, the largest tree east of the Sierra Nevada and the sixth largest in terms of overall volume in the United States.
This is the national champion bald cypress, 94’ tall with a 17’ diameter trunk (it’s a single tree with two trunks). I live a mere 17 miles from it. Nice…
- are flat,
- are crowded,
- are feather-like,
- they occur in two rows on green twigs,
- are dull green above and whitish beneath, and
- they turn reddish-brown in the fall and drop along with the twigs.
The bark is brown or gray, with long fibrous or scaly ridges. It peels off in strips.
It’s my opinion that bald cypress is the undisputed King of American Bonsai and again, they are one of the very best bonsai trees for beginners!
Growth habit: Bald cypress is one of the more vigorous species grown as bonsai. Although you can expect only three rounds of growth each season, each round of growth is very dynamic.
One of my favorite and best bonsai trees for beginners is the American hornbeam, or Carpinus Caroliniana. It is a member of the birch family, Betulaceae and is an understory tree, growing to only about 30’ in height.
The bark is gray and smooth, the leaves a dark blue-green and shiny, elliptical, long-pointed at the tip, and sharply doubly saw-toothed.
Growth habit: American hornbeam grows continuously from spring through the end of the growing season. This hastens training, as it can be wired and shaped as many as three times during each season.
Leaf size reduction: hornbeam leaves reduce well, from 4-1/2” in length to less than 1”.
Ramification: facilitated by the continuous growth habit. For larger collected specimens with no branches at all, it’s common to see the tree bud and produce shoots that in turn produce secondary shoots in the first year.
This is evident on the specimen pictured here, which was collected Continue Reading →
You see a photo of a masterpiece bonsai, or better still you go to an exhibition and see wonderful specimens in person. You’re amazed that a fully mature tree which should be 100’ tall is only 2’ tall, and its leaves are tiny but perfectly shaped. You’re hooked and you want to be able to grow bonsai yourself.
This elicits the second question every new bonsai enthusiast asks, the first being, “How do they do that?”, namely: “What are the best bonsai trees for beginners?”
It’s a simple question with a reasonably simple answer.
The best bonsai trees for beginners are without a doubt those that are:
- easy to keep alive in a shallow container, and
- are quick to train into suitable representations of mature trees in nature.
As a beginner, the last thing you want is Continue Reading →
It had a great flared base, with some deadwood extending to the soil, and good taper to boot.
I figured to style it into an informal upright, and once it had thrown new branches that’s just what I set out to do. It grew all right for that season, but frankly it turned out to be only a so-so bonsai-in-the-making.
I gave it the minimum attention necessary, but for the most part it stood ignored among all the other trees.
Then 2011 came and I kept it watered and kept looking at it in an attempt to find a decent bonsai in the material. In the meantime, the dead area of the trunk grew bigger, leaving a couple of odd veins of living tissue and some branching that didn’t help the appearance one bit.
By the end of the growing season I was ready to toss it out.
Then it hit me:
Why not lay the thing down and see if it wanted to be a Continue Reading →